Creating Naturalistic Terrarium Homes for Arboreal Snakes

admin — Mon, 06 May 2024 16:16:23 +0000

Looking to create a cozy habitat for your adorable pets? Terrariums offer a fully planted, naturalistic environment perfect for your furry friends. Join us as we are going to put our lovely animals into their new homes and see how they thrive! If you’re curious about witnessing this exciting journey, make sure to stick around. Trust us, it’s going to be a blast! We collect some tropical plants from the nursery. So let’s get started because these animals are gonna love their future homes.

I’ve acquired two 12 by 12 by 18 Exotera terrariums. I love the quality of these terrariums plus I like that they’re front opening. I installed a cork wall as the background in one terrarium and in the second one, it’s an enclosure I used to keep my fantasticus in. It’s a custom cork spray foam cocoa silicone background that looks naturalistic and it’ll work just perfectly fine. So some of the things we’ll be using for this build are sticky tack. Trust me I know you’re like what? What do you need that for? I’ll explain. We have some cork tubes stuffed with sphagnum moss that are gonna provide our animals with wonderful naturalistic hides.

For substrate, I’m gonna be using the Zilla jungle mix. I like this product it’s very soft it holds moisture well the animals can dig in it. Plants go really well in it it’s good. I’ve got some dried leaf litter which can help provide cover and food for the cleanup crew and just again help with the naturalistic aesthetic we’re going for. I have a whole bunch of vines that are gonna be used for the animals to climb on and maximize the usage of their tanks and finally a whole bunch of live plants. I have the arca palm which will for sure outgrow this tank but it looks nice for now. Now these terrariums are going to be getting manually misted and I can easily control how much water is going in which means that I don’t feel I need to add a drainage layer. I’m not worried about oversaturating my substrate.

These terrariums aren’t being watered enough that we need to have a separate location to hold excess water. Just a simple three to four-inch deep layer of substrate spread out evenly. That’s all it takes. So let’s turn these terrariums around and apply it where necessary. As far as reptiles go snakes can be quite the escape artists. A lot of terrariums have back latches or openings to allow for electronics to run through the lid. Although the exotearum model has a nice locking switch to close that gap it is possible that the snake could wedge itself in there and push its nose against the slider and we don’t want to risk that so we’re gonna take some of this sticky tack, mash it up so it’s more moldable, and stuff it into those gaps to ensure that there’s no way those snakes are getting out of there. Sure, this might seem like major overkill, but do you really want to have to tear your whole reptile room apart? Or even worse, go further into your house looking for your pet snake that escaped? I didn’t think so.

With our two terrariums secured, it’s time to wash off our plants. Most pesticides will break down within a month or so regardless, but if you purchase plants you’re gonna use in a build ahead of time, keep them around for a few weeks, and rinse them off every few days, there’s really nothing to worry about. Just try and remove as much of the potting mix from the roots as possible before moving them into your terrarium. Now this is my favorite part. The first elements of life are going into our build. I’m trying to find a suitable location for this. I’m kind of putting aesthetic aside for this build. I just want there to be a dense amount of live foliage for these arboreal snakes to move through and find a sense of security in. With one of the China doll trees planted, I’m also beginning to find proper spots to insert the vines. Because they can’t all go in when there’s too much foliage, we’re gonna do it bit by bit. Add a plant here, add a vine there. I’m already so happy with how this is shaping up to look.

Now, although my rhino rat snakes don’t need basking lights per se, because that’s actually too hot for them, they do like to get up close to the lamp where it’s a little bit warmer. So taking advantage of the full height of the enclosure is important. So I’m keeping it in mind when I choose my plant and hardscape placement. Now I’m going to take one of those large cork hollows and place it far into the back corner of the terrarium where the snake can have a sense of security. Let’s go ahead now and take a bit of that loose dried sphagnum and feed it into the cork hollow. Gonna spray it down to moisten it up and place it far into the back of the terrarium building. A few more vines for climbing and perching and this terrarium is all ready for a snake. With our first build as an inspiration, it’s easy to set out the second one in a similar way. Sometimes I actually utilize pressure by pressing a long branch against the back of the tank and folding it into place against the front, we have a secure mounting. The last scaping element I wanted to put in here is some of that leaf litter.

We’re going to generously apply it all over the substrate as much as possible to really get that forest aesthetic we’re going for. Remember that these leaves will also break down over time, also with the help of our plants, and it’ll all help with the cycling of nutrition into the soil. Now we’re going to add some water to the soil and also spray down all the plants to give them a bit of an extra humidity boost as they acclimate to these new terrariums. Hey everybody, how’s the fun part, the moment of truth. We’re going to move the snakes into their new homes. I’m going to first start by removing water dishes and transferring them to the new terrariums. Now we’re going to add some tropical white springtails. These will quickly move into the soil and under the leaf litter and help regulate and consume mold and fungi that develop in our tank. Lastly, we’re adding some porcelainoidy’s prunosis, which are the powder blue or powder orange isopods. Isopods are great custodians for helping break down organic matter, so we’re actually going to use this culture to seed our two rhinoceros rat snake tanks. This is going to be the fun part. Honestly, they’re so small, being a bit like minimal blood drawn, but I think using the snake hooks also just going to help minimize stress, so we’re going to do a combination of handling and snake hook. I hope not to get bit too many times because it still sucks, even though they’re tiny. We’re just slowly going like this. And so far, so good. Nice and easy. Nothing too crazy. All right, there you have it, I want to take a moment to sincerely thank you for reading. For today’s question, I’d like to ask you all, what is your favorite part about building a naturalistic terrarium or vivarium for your specialty pets? Let me know in the comment section down below.

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A Comprehensive Guide to Preparing Plants for Terrariums and Vivariums

admin — Wed, 01 May 2024 06:15:58 +0000

Hey everyone! Today, I’m diving into one of the most requested topics: how I prep my plants for terrariums and vivariums. In this post, I’ll be sharing the methods and techniques that have proven successful for me over time. So, if you’re looking to set up your own green haven, stick around for some helpful insights.

As with everything take it with a grain of salt, find what works for you, and do your own research. I know many of you also want to know where I get my plants. Without getting into too much detail, simply put I’m opportunistic about it. I get plants wherever and whenever I find them. At home improvement stores, local nurseries, pet expos, and online of course. I’ll leave some links in the video description for websites that I frequent. I just wanted to get that out of the way so I don’t have to keep going over it in the comments. At this point I’m going to assume that you already have or are about to get plants.

You may be wondering, is there something special I need to do before I can use these? Yes there is, especially if you intend to use your plants with animals. Regardless of where they came from or how reputable the source is, I believe it’s essential to at least do the minimum to mitigate risk. What am I going on about? Well, there’s one main issue to consider and that is contamination of your setup from the addition of new plants. The prime factor is being the introduction of harmful pesticides or fertilizers and or the introduction of troublesome pests or pathogens.

Taking the necessary precautions against these is especially important when it comes to setups for animals but in my opinion it shouldn’t be overlooked with terrariums either. To elaborate, pesticides and fertilizers used on commercial plants are especially harmful to sensitive animals. I guarantee that if you’re buying plants from somewhere like Home Depot or Lowe’s, they will be riddled with these and likely pests. However, if properly taking care of beforehand, you can get a lot of good plants from either one. As for pests, I’ll give an example. Let’s say you have a lot of setups, introduced some new plants without mitigating risk, and consequently brought in pests.

Those pests likely won’t stay confined and will spread from setup to setup. The same can be said when simply introducing house plants into your space. Take fungus gnats for example. I can’t tell you how many times they’ve shown up on a small scale from house plants I didn’t clean or from terrarium plants I let sit around for a few days before cleaning. Gnats and other pests primarily come in with the substrate and are often not visible initially because they are still in eggs or hiding down on the substrate.

This leads to the first line of defense. Remove the existing substrate. This is the bare minimum and should be done with every plant no matter what. I don’t care if you’re simply bringing in a house plant. Strip that plant down to bare roots and get it in a new substrate of your choice. Just take your time and be mindful of the plant’s roots so that you don’t cause too much stress. If you don’t do this, I can guarantee you will introduce unwanted hikers and impurities. I’d say some of the most common pests are but not limited to fungus gnats, mites, and slugs. All of them are really annoying and could cause some problems long term.

A quick, somewhat related hack is that if you add a top dressing to house plants, like gravel, fungus gnats can’t get down into the substrate and reproduce. What about the pesticides and fertilizers I mentioned a moment ago or lingering pests? Some of them will of course be removed with the old substrate, but that leads to the second line of defense. Thoroughly clean off the plants with water after removing the old substrate. To do so, take your time and gently rinse the plants under some lukewarm water, soak them for a good 15 to 20 minutes, or a combination of the two. If possible, gently rub the leaves and roots between your fingers to aid in the removal of impurities.

For delicate plants that would be ruined from a rinse, simply do a series of soaks and lukewarm water. After you’ve taken these steps to wash the plants, I recommend lightly shaking them to remove excess water so that it doesn’t melt the leaves. In my opinion, removing the substrate and cleaning with water are a must for all terrarium and vivarium plants regardless of animals are a part of it or not. The reason being that this combination will help defend against everything mentioned earlier and this is usually more than sufficient for terrariums. That said, the combination of these two will only mitigate some of the risk.

They likely won’t remove all of the pests and won’t remove anything on a microscopic level that could potentially cause issues with their setups or animals. This leads to the third level of defense. Dip the plants in a chemical bath after the old substrate has been removed. For this, I’ll only discuss a diluted bleach mixture, but there are other options as well such as potassium permogenate. If you do some research on this, you’ll see that there’s various ways to go about it, but here’s what I do. I first soak the plants in lukewarm water for about 10 to 15 minutes. If you would have cleaned the plants with water, you would have already done this step. This will ensure the plants are fully hydrated and will lessen the likelihood they absorb bleach. Then the plants can be soaked in a 5% bleach, 95% water mixture for 5 minutes or so. Some people like to go much longer than that, but 5 minutes is my personal preference. After that, the plants need to be rinsed and soaked in lukewarm water for 10 minutes or so.

This dip should really do a good job at sanitizing the plants. However, no method is guaranteed to remove everything, so don’t be surprised if something slips under the radar. A lot of the time, eggs can make it through all of those processes, so in my opinion the best thing you can do is the fourth level of defense. Quarantine. Like I said earlier, I think the removal of old substrate and a good water cleaner is central However, no method is guaranteed to remove everything, so don’t be surprised if something slips under the radar. A lot of the time, eggs can make it through all of those processes, so in my opinion the best thing you can do is the fourth level of defense. Quarantine, Like I said earlier, I think the removal of old substrate and a good water cleaner is central regardless of how you intend to use the plant. From there, a chemical bath is just an added level of protection and in some cases is overkill.

However, those steps are no good if the plant went into your setup and wasn’t actually clean. That’s why quarantine is so important. Doing so will allow you to monitor the plant after it has been cleaned. I’d say anywhere from 2-4 weeks is an adequate window for quarantine, but longer is always better. If you notice something during this timeframe, you can give the plant another round of sanitation, followed by another round of quarantine, repeating the process until everything seems to check out. When the time comes, you’ll then be able to use your plants with a higher level of confidence. How would you actually go about quarantining though? First, follow some amount of the previous steps to clean the plants. You really can’t be too thorough with it, so be sure to take your time. From there, you’ll want to put your plants in a clean pot with some new substrate of your choice. Lastly, you’ll need a designated container to keep everything in. In the past, I’ve used aquariums, but I found that Tupperware Containers are a better solution. In most cases, they retain water well, there are plenty of sizes to choose from, and they’re easy to clean.

In summary, by following these steps diligently and being proactive in your approach to plant preparation, you can create a safe and thriving environment for your terrarium or vivarium inhabitants. So, whether you’re a seasoned hobbyist or just starting out, remember to prioritize the health and well-being of your botanical companions. Happy planting!

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Unlocking the Mysteries of Closed Terrariums

admin — Thu, 25 Apr 2024 13:15:58 +0000

A closed terrarium is a self-sufficient ecosystem that is created inside a clear enclosed container replicating a piece of nature. It is built with substrate, natural materials and moisture loving plants. It is essentially a miniature ecosystem that is able to effectively sustain itself with almost no interference from outside. But have you ever wondered how a terrarium actually works? How is it able to sustain life inside an enclosed space without having access to the outside atmosphere? To know that we will have to first understand what plants need to survive.

They need sunlight, carbon dioxide, oxygen, water and nutrients to survive and all of these form part of the nutrient cycle that plants must have constant access to. Let us talk about sunlight which is a key energy source used by plants. We already know that we cannot subject a closed terrarium to direct sunlight. It will create an extreme greenhouse effect and kill everything that is alive inside the terrarium. Indirect sunlight can work but may not always be very effective. Artificial lighting is a much preferred way these days to provide light energy to plants in closed terrariums. As long as plants get sufficient light, be it from indirect sunlight or

artificial source, they will thrive. Photosynthesis is the process used by plants in which they use light, carbon dioxide and water to prepare their food. The carbon cycle and the water or hydrologic cycle comes into play here. Let us understand the carbon cycle first. Carbon is an essential element for plant growth and is cycled between the plants, soil and air in a closed terrarium just as it is in nature. Let’s start with how carbon enters the terrarium in the first place.

Carbon dioxide is present in the air and is taken up by the plants inside the terrarium through tiny openings on their leaves called stomata. Inside the plant, the carbon is used for photosynthesis to create glucose which is used for energy and growth. As the plants grow old and develop, they store carbon in their tissues. When the plants die or shed leaves, the carbon in their tissues is released back into the soil through the process of decomposition. In the soil, microorganisms such as bacteria and fungi break down the organic matter and release carbon back into the air as carbon dioxide.

The carbon dioxide is then taken up by the plants again, restarting the cycle. The amount of carbon dioxide in the system remains constant and no new carbon is added or removed from the system. This means that the terrarium is entirely self sufficient and does not require any external inputs of carbon. In a closed terrarium, the oxygen cycle is a natural process that occurs within the ecosystem of the terrarium. Plants within the terrarium produce oxygen through the process of photosynthesis, where they absorb carbon dioxide and water and convert

it into glucose and oxygen. The oxygen produced by the plants and released into the environment is then reused by them during respiration. The oxygen is consumed via stomata and is used up by the cells in the leaves to disintegrate glucose into water and carbon dioxide. In terrariums, which houses animals like springtails and isopods, oxygen is also consumed by them as part of their respiration process. The water cycle, also known as the hydrologic cycle, is another important aspect of a closed terrarium ecosystem. In a closed terrarium, water is constantly cycling between the plants, soil and air, just as it does in nature.

Again, let’s start with how water enters the terrarium in the first place. Initially, the soil and plants inside the terrarium are moistened with water by the person who builds it. The moisture in the soil is then taken up by the roots of the plants, where it is used for various purposes such as photosynthesis, respiration and the formation of new cells. The moisture is returned to the air through the process of evapotranspiration. Evapotranspiration is the combined process of transpiration from the plants and evaporation from the soil. The water vapor in the air then condenses on the cooler surface of the terrarium container and trickles back down into the soil, continuing the cycle. In a closed terrarium, the water cycle is a closed system. T

his means that the amount of water in the system is constant and the terrarium is entirely self-sufficient. However, it’s still important to monitor the amount of moisture in the soil to ensure that it stays at an appropriate level for the plants. If the soil becomes too dry, the plants may wilt and die. If it becomes too wet, it can lead to root rot and other issues. To maintain the proper balance of moisture, it’s important to choose plants that have similar water requirements and to monitor the soil moisture regularly during the first few weeks after the setup. Nitrogen is an essential nutrient for the production of amino acids, proteins and nucleic acids which are crucial elements for plant growth. Nitrogen gas is already present in the air inside the terrarium but it cannot be directly used by the plants.

However, some bacteria and fungi are capable of converting nitrogen gas into a form that plants can use in a process called nitrogen fixation. This nitrogen-fixing bacteria and fungi are present in the soil of the terrarium and they convert nitrogen gas into a form of nitrogen that can be used by plants, such as ammonium or nitrate. The plants inside the terrarium take up this nitrogen through their roots and use it for various purposes such as growth and formation of proteins and other essential compounds. In the soil, other bacteria and fungi break down organic matter and release nitrogen back into the air as nitrogen gas through a process called denitrification. It’s important to note that in a closed terrarium the nitrogen cycle is a closed system.

The amount of nitrogen in the system remains constant and no new nitrogen is added or removed from the system. This means that the terrarium is entirely self-sufficient and does not require any external inputs of nitrogen. The soil also supplies other macronutrients like phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium and sulphur to the plants. In relatively small amounts the soil also supplies iron, manganese, boron, molybdenum, copper, zinc, chlorine and cobalt, the so-called micronutrients. These nutrients are absorbed by the plants and again when the shed leaves some of the nutrients are returned back to the soil and the cycle continues. While a closed terrarium is a self-sustaining ecosystem it may still require some maintenance. Over time nutrients can become depleted. To prevent this occasionally nutrients may be added to the terrarium and plants pruned to prevent them from depleting the nutrients too quickly.

In summary, a closed terrarium is a fascinating and self-sustaining ecosystem where plants, soil and air work together to cycle nutrients. By understanding how nutrient cycling works we can create and attain healthy and thriving terrariums that can bring a touch of nature into our homes.

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Crafting the Ideal Soil Mix for Your Terrarium

admin — Wed, 24 Apr 2024 16:38:44 +0000

Regular potting mix There are a few different options available when it comes to selecting a soil mix for your terrarium soil. You can either choose to purchase a regular potting mix from a nursery or use soil from your backyard or garden. The right terrarium substrate is one of the three main pillars of building successful terrariums, along with enough light and correct watering. In this blog, I’m going to go in-depth about why it’s important to get the soil right.

One of the main guided principles when mixing up a terrarium substrate is that we want it to be airy. Why? Well, two reasons. One, roots need to breathe, and two, it’s nasty to have anaerobic soil in a terrarium. Classifying terrarium substrates into two categories, chunkies and fluffies, is a perfect way to explain how terrarium substrates work. Fluffies, such as coco coir, leaf mold, sphagnum moss, and good quality compost, are all soft, fluffy, fine-grained, or moldable so they can fill the spaces between the chunks and hold onto water nicely.

They do have a tendency to compact after a few months, so we add chunks to ensure that the soil stays nice and airy. Chunkies, the best of which are fine-grained and porous for water retention, are lava rock, pumice, akadama, molar clay, small leca, charcoal bits, fine orchid bark, and even fern bark bits. Perlite can work, but it’s white in color, and I’m generally not a big fan of it. Vermiculite, too, breaks down after a while, so I tend to avoid perlite and vermiculite. Worm castings are in a third category of their own because they’re neither chunky nor fluffy, but it’s really important to have them because they bring nutritional value to our medium.

Worm castings are very water-retentive and can get mushy, but they contain nutrition and microbial activity for a healthy ecosystem, so that’s a win-win. What makes a good quality substrate? It’s a mixture of fluffies and chunkies with some nutrition, too, which usually comes from the worm castings, but you could use good quality compost, too. You could use a mixture of all of the ingredients I just listed. However, I like to keep it simple and cost-effective and use a mixture of three or four. Here’s what I like to use: molar clay, calcined clay, biosorb, or unscented cat litter. This wonderful material goes under a million different names.

In simple terms, they are fire-clayed pellets that absorb insane amounts of liquid. Each granule will hold onto water, stay moist, but it allows access to run through. There are spaces between the granules that create air pockets, and that’s where the roots will be growing. The roots don’t grow into the molar clay; rather, they grow into the spaces around the molar clay, and we’re going to be. The next material we’re going to be using is coir. Coir is a byproduct of the coconut trade.

If you imagine a coconut, it has that hairy husk on the outside of it that’s stripped off and ground down, and it becomes this nice airy water-attentive medium that’s a wonderful addition to our terrarium substrate. We’re going to go and use these two materials in our terrarium substrate. We would eventually hit a wall, and our plants would become malnourished because, unfortunately, molar clay or coir has no nutritional value, which is why I’m using the next material. Worm castings, also known as black gold, vermicompost, vermicast, worm manure, it’s essentially worm poo, and it’s full of the good stuff that will keep our plants happy, healthy, and strong.

If you’re a keen gardener or composter, then you may already have a wormery, but if not, then it’s fairly easy to get hold of worm castings in the UK. Let’s go in with one-part worm castings. So our medium is now made up of two parts molar clay, one part coir, and one part worm castings. Now this would be a perfectly fine medium to use on its own, just give it a good mix like this. Once that’s mixed up, the soil should be super grainy, and super loose, and it should fall right through your fingers. However, there’s an optional fourth material that really is the cherry on the cake. If you’re lucky enough to have a leaf molar pile, then adding a few scoops into your medium is a great way to bring in lots of beneficial microbes and microfauna.

However, if you don’t, like me, then adding leaf litter is the next best thing to do. You can skip this step if you want, but if you’re planning on adding microfauna, then I highly recommend that you do add the leaf litter or leaf mold to your terrarium because it’s going to make them much happier. Now to add leaf litter to your terrarium, you could scrunch it up and add it directly to the medium, or you could add it on top of the soil like a top dressing. Now the point that I really, really want to convey in this article is that using good quality terrarium substrate is the key to terrariums.

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A Journey Through the Fascinating History of Miniature Ecosystems

admin — Sun, 21 Apr 2024 17:15:39 +0000

Hey there, plant enthusiasts! Today, we’re taking a journey through time to explore the rich history of terrariums. Let’s get started!

Our story begins nearly 200 years ago with Dr. Nathaniel Bagshaw Ward, a London physician and avid nature lover. During a voyage to Jamaica at the young age of 13, Ward’s fascination with plants, particularly ferns and palms, was ignited. As an adult in London, he dreamed of creating a lush wall covered in ferns and moss.

But growing ferns in 19th-century London was no easy feat. Homes were cold, drafty, and polluted due to the Industrial Revolution. Despite his efforts, Ward’s attempts to cultivate ferns repeatedly failed. That is, until a serendipitous discovery in 1829 changed everything.

While exploring his backyard, Ward found a sphinx moth chrysalis. Intrigued, he placed it in a glass bottle filled with soil to observe its transformation. Though the chrysalis didn’t survive, Ward noticed a fern spore and grass growing inside the sealed bottle. This accidental discovery led him to invent the “Wardian case,” an early form of terrarium that created a self-contained ecosystem where plants could thrive.

Imagine the excitement when a fern, a plant Ward had failed to cultivate for years, grew spontaneously inside the sealed bottle! Placing it in a north-facing window outside his study, Ward observed the terrarium flourish without any care or watering for four years. This was groundbreaking, shattering the belief that plants needed air or ventilation to survive.

Inspired by this success, Ward had larger glass boxes constructed with tight seals, diffusing drafts and maintaining a constant temperature while allowing in light. He placed these terrariums all over his home, experimenting with various ferns and other plants.

In 1833, Dr. Ward embarked on a groundbreaking experiment, shipping two large wooden glass boxes filled with ferns to Sydney, Australia. Despite enduring extreme weather conditions on an eight-month voyage, these terrariums, packed with Australian ferns, made it back to London in 1835 with huge success! Over the years, Ward collected an astonishing 25,000 plant specimens.

The term “terrarium,” derived from “terra” meaning Earth and “rium” meaning place, wasn’t coined until later in the 19th century. Until then, these mini greenhouses were known as Wardian cases. With a 95% survival rate for plants shipped in Wardian cases, a new era of plant exploration, transportation, and cultivation began.

This revolution led to the mass cultivation of plants like the Chinese tea plant in India, Chinese bananas in Fiji, and Brazil’s rubber tree in Sri Lanka. Ornamental plant growers flourished across Europe and America, contributing to the diverse plant life we enjoy today.

During this plant boom, Kew Gardens, the renowned Royal Botanical Garden, acquired more plants in 15 years than in the previous 100 years combined! However, this global exchange also brought challenges like botanical espionage and the spread of pests.

In 1842, Dr. Ward published his book on the growth of plants in closely glazed cases, marking the rise of Wardian cases in Victorian homes. Soon, every Victorian parlor in London boasted its own terrarium, and the trend quickly spread to America.

Plants like ferns became the darlings of Victorian England, fueling a demand for exotic plants. Even average folks could commission plant expeditions, sometimes partnering with famous plant hunters like Joseph Dalton Hooker, who was buddies with Charles Darwin!

Rare plant auctions became popular, allowing people to shop for exotic plants from home. Terrariums evolved into aquariums, combining land and sea elements for a unique aesthetic.

Dr. Ward became a botanical celebrity, hosting microscope soirees where observation was the main entertainment. His colleague, Joseph Paxton, built the monumental Crystal Palace for the Great Exhibition of 1851, showcasing terrariums and featuring as many as 14,000 plants!

The fern craze lasted about 50 years before giving way to the orchid craze and other botanical trends. As decades passed, the popularity of terrariums waned due to wars and economic downturns.

In the 70s, terrariums experienced a resurgence in America, with books showcasing both timeless techniques and stylish designs. From terrariums, the concept of vivariums emerged, designed for animals like lizards or turtles, mimicking their native environments.

So, while the popularity of terrariums has ebbed and flowed over the years, their legacy lives on in the form of vivariums and the enduring appeal of bringing nature indoors. Whether it’s a terrarium filled with lush plants or a vivarium housing a pet reptile, these miniature ecosystems continue to captivate and inspire us. Stay tuned for more adventures in the world of terrariums and vivariums!

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Terrarium Magic, Choosing the Right Plants

admin — Thu, 18 Apr 2024 14:23:39 +0000

Terrariums can house a variety of plants, but maybe you prefer the look of moss over succulents? Or perhaps you fancy more traditional houseplants? No matter what type of plant you choose, make sure that you are putting it in the right type of container and that it will live in an environment that will make it happy. If you have kitties who love eating plants, it’s also important to choose plants that aren’t poisonous and won’t cause skin irritation and the most important thing to remember when planning your terrarium is to ensure you choose plants that have the same growing requirements as one another including humidity, watering, soil, and light.

Here are some easy terrarium plant ideas for terrariums.

SUN-LOVING PLANTS

SHADE-LOVING PLANTS

ORCHIDS

SUCCULENTS

Aeonium arboreum (turns reddish with lots of sun) or Aeonium haworthii baby’s toes (Fenestraria rhopalophylla) Dwarf cowhorn agave (Agave cupreata) Gollum (Crassula ovata gollum) and variegated jade (Crassula ovata variegata); any crassula, really! Haworthia Coarcata (likes some shade) hens and chicks (Sempervivum) jade or money tree (Crassula ovata) Lizard’s tail (Crassula muscosa); caution: this succulent can grow to a foot (30.5 centimeters) tall miniature aloe (Aloe haworthioides) Miniature pine tree (Crassula tetragona) Panda plant (Kalanchoe tomentosa) Pinwheel aeonium (Aeonium haworthii) Rosary vine (Crassula rupestris) Sedum (one cutey is Sedum burrito, aka burro’s tail sedum, and another is Sedum rubrotinctum, Aka the jelly bean plant tree aeonium (Aeonium arboreum); turns reddish with lots of sun zipper plant (Euphorbia anoplia).

CARNIVOROUS PLANTS

Mexican butterwort plant (Pinguicula moranensis), Yellow trumpet pitcher (Sarracenia flava), Fork-leaved sundew (Drosera binata), Venus flytrap (Dionaea muscipula).

Plants and succulents need breathing room. You’ve probably seen terrariums for sale that have the plants close together, but these terrariums are in it for the short haul. Plants that are too close together can kill each other by strangling one another’s roots or by blocking out the other’s light. A little open pathway through a magical world is a very good thing. When removing a plant from its original pot, be sure to gently knock off some of the soil attached to its roots and fluff them up a bit so they have an easier time adjusting to their new home. Place the plant in a shallow layer of soil and hold it upright while you scoop soil around it, then pat down the soil a little bit so the plant stays put and not too much air remains near the roots. Repeat with any other plants you’re adding to your terrarium, then water (but do not drench) your new additions. A good, healthy watering will help prevent transplant shock, but you never want to add so much that the plant is sitting in a puddle. Remember: even though there are rocks on the bottom of the terrarium to prevent root rot, there are no actual drainage holes like those you’d find in a potted plant.

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why terrarium is good?

admin — Mon, 08 Apr 2024 06:59:02 +0000

A terrarium is a miniature rainforest inside of artisan glass. Not everyone has the space to maintain plants in their apartment, but owning a terrarium comes with numerous benefits. Today, we’ll discover why people love terrarium plants and learn about the benefits they provide.

Discover 7 Best Plants for Your Mental Health

Research conducted by the Department of Horticulture Sciences in Korea highlights the significant impact of houseplants on mental health. Active interaction with indoor plants has been proven to reduce both physiological and psychological stress levels, offering a natural remedy for daily stressors. Let’s explore the top plants backed by scientific studies that can enhance your well-being:

Peace Lily
To improve your work-life balance, consider growing Peace Lilies. Not only do they act as natural air purifiers, but they are also effective at removing toxins like toluene and xylene from indoor air, which are known stressors. Additionally, the presence of large foliage plants like Peace Lilies can uplift mood and promote positivity.

Lavender
To stay calm amidst the chaos, incorporate lavender into your space. Studies from the Shafa Neuroscience Research Center in Tehran indicate that the fragrance of lavender possesses anxiolytic and mood-stabilizing properties, making it beneficial for treating neurological disorders. Spending time near a lavender plant can help reduce stress and promote relaxation.

Eucalyptus
For daily appreciation and anxiety reduction, opt for Eucalyptus. Research conducted by the Department of Basic Nursing Science at Korea University suggests that the fragrance of Eucalyptus oil can lower anxiety levels. Growing Eucalyptus indoors allows you to enjoy its soothing aroma, which can be further enhanced by crushing its leaves.

Aloe Vera
Reclaim your peace of mind with Aloe Vera. Studies from the School of Traditional Medicine in Tehran suggest that the sedative effects of Aloe Vera extract can aid in achieving deep sleep, thereby reducing stress and anxiety levels. Growing Aloe Vera indoors provides access to its fresh gel, which can be used to make a soothing bedtime drink.

Snake Plant
During difficult times, consider growing a Snake Plant. Not only does it purify indoor air, but it also thrives in low-light conditions. Research from Harvard University Extension confirms that Snake Plants are among the most oxygen-producing houseplants, which can lead to better sleep and overall stress reduction.

Rosemary
Enhance your memory and mood with Rosemary. Research indicates that inhaling the scent of Rosemary can lower cortisol levels in the blood, reducing stress. Additionally, intake of Rosemary extract has been shown to improve mental energy and sleep quality, offering holistic support for mental well-being.

Jasmine
To alleviate panic attacks, depression, and insomnia, consider growing Jasmine. Studies have shown that the fragrance of Jasmine possesses sedative properties, making it beneficial for promoting relaxation and improving sleep quality.

These scientifically-backed plants offer more than just aesthetic appeal—they provide tangible benefits for mental health and well-being. Incorporating them into your indoor space can create a soothing sanctuary where stress fades away, and tranquility thrives.

As we explore the benefits and challenges of cultivating plants in an all-encompassing terrarium under glass, it becomes evident that nature’s wonders extend far beyond their visual allure. Terrariums offer numerous advantages, serving as a haven for plants requiring high humidity levels, which may struggle to thrive in typical home environments due to heating and air conditioning. This fosters the growth of unique and exotic flora that might otherwise be unattainable. Yet, among the lush foliage lies a common adversary: mold growth. The warm, humid environment within terrariums provides an ideal breeding ground for mold, posing a challenge to enthusiasts. However, by implementing preventative measures such as avoiding biodegradable materials and introducing beneficial organisms like springtails and isopods, one can cultivate a thriving terrarium ecosystem while mitigating the risk of mold infestation.

In understanding and addressing these challenges, we not only enrich our indoor environments with the beauty of nature but also cultivate a deeper appreciation for the intricate balance required to nurture thriving ecosystems. With thoughtful care and proactive measures, enthusiasts can revel in the serenity of terrarium gardening, knowing that their plants flourish amidst a mold-free haven.

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How to Build a Terrarium with Step-by-Step Guide

admin — Sat, 06 Apr 2024 11:39:06 +0000

Making a terrarium can seem complicated at first, but this blog will guide you through the process step by step.

For today’s build, I’m going to be using a glass cookie jar. It has a lid with a rubber gasket, providing a tight seal. Now let’s move on to making the drainage layer. To make this layer, you have many options. Today, I’m using “Leaker” stones, known for their porous nature and lightweight. After placing a generous amount and leveling it, the drainage layer is complete. It only needs to be about two to three centimeters deep for a terrarium this size.

For the substrate barrier, I’m using window screen mesh to prevent the substrate from falling through. It’s cut to size easily with scissors and provides a good flow of water while holding back the substrate.

Now let’s move on to creating the substrate mix. These are the materials you’ll need, and I’ll explain the ratio as I make the mix. You’ll also need a tub to mix everything up and a tub to measure the parts.

The drainage layer only needs to be about two to three centimeters deep. If I were to add the substrate now, it would fall through the gaps in the drainage layer. A simple solution is using window screen mesh to create a substrate barrier. It prevents the substrate from falling through and can easily be cut to size with scissors. While there are other materials like weed blocker fabric, window screen mesh works best as it holds back most of the substrate while allowing good water flow. With the drainage layer and substrate barrier in place, let’s move on to creating the substrate mix. I’ll use my usual mix that I’ve used successfully for over 2000 terrariums. Here are the materials you’ll need, and I’ll explain the ratio as I make the mix. You’ll also need tubs to mix everything up and measure the parts. Let’s get started.

I’ll begin by rehydrating the cocoa fiber brick in water, which expands a lot. Once fully hydrated, I measure out one part of the cocoa fiber. Similarly, I measure out two parts of sphagnum moss, which I trim into small pieces. Then, I add a quarter part each of the orchid bark, charcoal, and worm castings before mixing everything together. These ratios create the perfect terrarium substrate, combining moisture retention, resistance to compression, nutrients for plants, and good drainage. If you make many terrariums like me, consider making a large batch. Now, it’s time to add the substrate to the terrarium. After pouring in a generous amount, I gently pat it down into place, creating a slope towards the back for depth. The substrate barrier effectively prevents the substrate from reaching the drainage layer.

Granite pebbles add nice textures, and slate stone is a cheap yet effective option with horizontal textures. Spiderwood comes in a variety of styles and can transform the hardscape. Driftwood also works well alone or combined with rocks. Corkbark is budget-friendly and looks great in terrariums. For today’s build, I’ll use spiderwood with slate stone for a nice contrast.

Experimenting with layouts, I settled on a simple design with three pieces of slate stone and one piece of spiderwood. Now, let’s talk about moss. Three great options for terrariums are fern moss, cushion moss, and mood moss. I’ll use cushion moss for today’s build.

After preparing the moss, I gently tear it into smaller chunks and plant it using long tweezers. Pressing it onto the substrate helps with moisture absorption.

I have a variety of species here, some pulled from other terrariums. Fetonia is popular for its different colors and leaf shapes. Peperomia has beautiful dark red leaves when mature. Hydrocotyl, an aquatic plant, also thrives in terrariums.

Starting with cuttings from the white Fetonia, I propagate them by planting the stem up to the first set of leaves. Next, I plant the largest Peperomia towards the back using tweezers to make a hole in the moss and substrate. The Fetonia cutting goes behind the spiderwood, and the tiny Peperomia is planted on the right side. The red Fetonia adds a pop of color in the center.

I also add cuttings of hydroxyl around for texture. Springtails, found in reptile and amphibian shops or online, help maintain the terrarium’s ecosystem by eating mold and providing fertilizer.

For watering, a light spray with a misting bottle is sufficient, avoiding overwatering. As for lighting, a display LED light or indirect sunlight for 12 hours a day is ideal. Opening the terrarium every one to two weeks helps with air circulation.

Remember, creating a terrarium is not just about crafting a decorative piece; it’s about nurturing a living ecosystem. With proper care and attention to detail, your terrarium will continue to evolve and grow, bringing a piece of the natural world into your home.

So, whether you’re a seasoned terrarium enthusiast or embarking on your first botanical adventure, take pride in your creation and marvel at the tiny world you’ve brought to life. Happy terrarium making!

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Building Your Own Terrarium Step-by-Step Guide!

admin — Tue, 26 Mar 2024 19:02:59 +0000

Welcome to the wonderful world of terrariums! If you’re looking to bring a touch of nature into your home or office, building your own terrarium is a fantastic way to do just that. In this detailed guide, we’ll walk you through each step of the process, from selecting the perfect container to adding the finishing touches. Get ready to unleash your creativity and create a stunning miniature ecosystem!

Step 1: Choose Your Container

The first step in building a terrarium is selecting the right container. You can use glass jars, fishbowls, or even old aquariums – the possibilities are endless! Just make sure the container has a wide opening for easy access and is transparent to allow sunlight to filter through.

Step 2: Gather Your Materials

Now that you have your container, it’s time to gather the materials you’ll need:

- Potting soil: Choose a high-quality, well-draining potting mix suitable for the plants you’ll be using.

- Small plants: Opt for small, slow-growing plants that thrive in humid environments, such as ferns, mosses, and succulents.

- Decorative elements: Get creative with decorative elements like rocks, pebbles, driftwood, and miniature figurines to add personality to your terrarium.

- Tools: You’ll need a small shovel or spoon for planting, as well as a spray bottle for watering.

Step 3: Layer the Bottom of Your Container

Start by adding a layer of drainage material to the bottom of your container. This could be gravel, pebbles, or activated charcoal, which helps prevent water from pooling at the bottom and causing root rot.

Step 4: Add Potting Soil

Next, add a layer of potting soil on top of the drainage material. The depth of the soil layer will depend on the size of your container and the root depth of your plants, but aim for around 1-2 inches.

Step 5: Plant Your Terrarium

Now comes the fun part – planting! Use your fingers or a small shovel to dig holes in the soil for your plants. Arrange them in your desired layout, making sure to leave enough space between each plant for growth.

Step 6: Add Decorative Elements

Once your plants are in place, it’s time to add some decorative elements to give your terrarium personality. Arrange rocks, pebbles, driftwood, or any other decorative elements around the plants to create a visually appealing landscape.

Step 7: Water Your Terrarium

Give your terrarium a good misting with water using a spray bottle. Be careful not to overwater – you want the soil to be moist but not waterlogged. Adjust the amount of water as needed based on the moisture levels in your terrarium.

Step 8: Place Your Terrarium in the Right Location

Finally, find the perfect spot for your terrarium. Choose a location with indirect sunlight, as direct sunlight can cause your terrarium to overheat and damage the plants. A bright, well-lit room with good airflow is ideal.

Congratulations, you’ve just built your very own terrarium! With a little creativity and care, your terrarium will thrive and become a beautiful focal point in your home or office. So go ahead, unleash your inner gardener and create your own miniature oasis!

Happy terrarium building!

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Unlocking the Magic, How Terrarium Works!

admin — Tue, 26 Mar 2024 17:12:16 +0000

Hey there, fellow nature enthusiast! Ever wondered how those charming little terrariums work their magic? Well, buckle up because we’re about to dive into the fascinating world of miniature ecosystems!

Section 1: Let’s Talk Terrariums So, what exactly is a terrarium? Think of it as a tiny, self-contained garden encapsulated in a glass container. It’s like having your little slice of nature right on your tabletop.

Section 2: What Makes It Tick? Now, let’s break down the bits and bobs that make up your terrarium. We’ve got the container, the soil, the plants, and of course, those cute little decorations that add that extra touch of whimsy.

Section 3: The Science Bit Okay, brace yourself for a mini-science lesson! Terrariums are like their own little ecosystems, complete with a water cycle and all. It’s like nature’s version of a perpetual motion machine, but way cooler.

Section 4: Putting It All Together Ready to roll up your sleeves and get your hands dirty? We’ll walk you through the step-by-step process of creating your very own terrarium. Spoiler alert: it’s easier than you think!

Section 5: TLC – Terrarium Loving Care Just like any living thing, your terrarium needs a little TLC to thrive. We’ll dish out some handy tips on watering, pruning, and keeping those pesky pests at bay.

Section 6: Why You Need a Terrarium in Your Life Trust us, once you’ve got a terrarium in your space, you’ll wonder how you ever lived without it. Not only do they look darn cute, but they also bring a breath of fresh air (literally!) into your home.

And there you have it, folks! A crash course in the enchanting world of terrariums. So go ahead, grab your glass jar and get ready to create your very own green oasis. Your inner plant parent will thank you!

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